Breaking the Cycle - Baja Divide

Feb 14

#5:
Ejido Erendira - Colonet - Nueva Odisea

Published at 15:17
Dispatch created from email
12th-13th February
Distance - 143km
Total Distance - 481km

Day 6

Ejido Erendira to Colonet on MEX1 highway was only a short day in distance. Due to another late start due to the ongoing communications issue, we decided it wouldn't hurt to have a lighter day anyway.
We set off into town from where we stayed at Coyote Cal's to pick up a few supplies. While Chris was in the store, I watched the bikes (one of us always watches the bikes in these situations). I had an animated conversation with a local, who promptly gave me a large homegrown lemon!
Not exactly what we needed, but a kind gesture. So not to offend, I kept as we set off, but as there is no room on our bikes for unneeded items, I soon gave it away. The previous day, outside a store in Santos Tomas, another local presented me with 1kg of organic, export quality strawberries. We ate what we could, but couldn't carry them, and duly gave then away.
Our route hugged the coastline, winding it's way through farmland before entering the rugged coastal landscape. This was probably my favourite section of the ride so far.
After about 22km, the track turned away from the coast with a series of steep climbs. From there it became one with tracks from the Baja 1000 (famous dirt bike race which happens in late November).
The coastal landscape was pretty desolate - there were no trees and the terrain was carpeted with low-lying succulent vegetation. The hills were carved by some deep ravines; the Baja 1000 track bisecting them. These descents and ascents were a challenge with rocks, loose stones and gully erosion. The route here resembled a BMX race track complete with large waves or 'rollers'. The last 15 km were through more farmland and we made it to Colonet, settling in to a hotel with decent internet, before dark this time.

Day 7

After a week it is evident, with the nature of the terrain we are faced with and my (improving) fitness level, we will never make it to La Paz in 24 days - that was always going to be optimistic anyway. From now on we will mix it up between following the Baja Divide route and catching up by following the main highway (MEX1).
Day 7 was our first catch up day, 95km down MEX1. The highway was very busy and basically a slog in to a gentle cross-head wind. Most of the way, the road was flanked by large agricultural enterprises growing all sorts of fruit the vegetables in the rich, red loamy soil. Occasionally we'd see teams to labourers picking strawberries, greens and other fruits and vegetables.
After 65km we reached San Quintin, our goal for lunch. The town itself seemed to be strung out along the highway from several kilometres. The traffic was particularly dense and chaotic. Just before sundown we made it to Nueva Odisea, the point at which we rejoin the Baja Divide route and took a campsite.
I write this blog in my tent, listening to the waves crash on the beach just behind us. The sunset this evening over the Pacific Ocean was truly spectacular. There are some others staying at this site who are also riding the Baja Divide and we have swapped a few stories and knowledge of the path ahead.
From here lies a wall of ranges and it will take us at least a couple of days to reach the next small supply point. The BGAN issues has finally been sorted out, so we should still be able to communicate.
The images are of Chris riding along the coast, south of Ejido Erendira and having a lunch break.

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