Expenews

“LAND HO!!!” came the cry from the cockpit as the skipper spotted the Willis Islands off the western coast of South Georgia. We rushed to the deck to see the razor-sharp, snow-capped silhouettes off the southern horizon just before 1 pm local time. It was an indescribable feeling of relief for those of us who have been plagued by motion sickness for four consecutive days.
Our plan is to anchor in Right Whale Bay on the north side of South Georgia tonight. The bad news is, we will not be able to land until tomorrow. For our seasick friends, the experience is similar to what a starving man feels when someone hands him a wax apple.
Today has been filled with small pleasures that inject excitement into a monotonous journey. We saw our first signs of marine life when a pack of seals leapt out of the water in front of our boat, sort of like the deer that amble out in front of cars in Maine, but less dangerous. We also saw the first patches of sunlight shining through the dull metallic clouds that have been above us most of the way.
Speaking for myself, I am anxious for the climbing to begin. Our movements on the ship have been mostly restricted to the 10 meters between our bunks and the galley. We eat well, with food prepared by passengers and crew who are adept at slicing vegetables with one hand whilst clutching any immobile object with the other as the ship pitches about. The constant thrashing makes it hard to perform the simplest of tasks. Washing a challenge; shaving is potentially suicidal.
Not for the casual traveler, this trip. If any of you have ever wondered why they called the Broadway musical “South Pacific” instead of “South Atlantic,” wonder no more. South Pacific is smiling natives in grass skirts playing ukuleles, lovers in amatory embrace rolling through the surf, and happy people gazing at the sunset with exotic drinks in hand. South Atlantic is freezing wind that bites to the bone, snow squalls, and endless roller waves that make you want to throw up the lunch you ate in 1974. Don’t plan your honeymoon for the South Atlantic unless you want a quick divorce.
See tomorrow's post for our first encounters with elephant seals giving birth to their pups!